|Brand||Moët & Chandon|
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The bouquet spirals through sweet, bright floral notes and the lively minerality so typical of Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon, then notes of candied fruit, plants, the incredible freshness of camphor leaf and finally the dark hints of spices and liquorice root.
It is compelling, tactile and vibrant rather than aromatic. The rhythm and tempo of Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon are more dominant than the melody. At first mild and delicate, then strongly, confidently mineral, persistent, precise, with a refined bitterness, and an iodine, saline tang.
Then again, that is precisely what makes 2008 such a unique vintage – namely that the best wines are so chiseled and yet not at all austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and persistence that elevate it into the realm of the sublime. The 2008 will be even better with time in the cellar, but it is absolutely phenomenal even today, in the early going. Three recent bottles have all been nothing short of magnificent.
There’s power to this graceful Champagne, with the vivid acidity swathed in a fine, creamy mousse and flavors of toasted brioche, kumquat, pastry cream, candied ginger and poached plum that dance across the palate.
The immediate impression is of the mildness of the pure, airy, bright bouquet. A floral, fruity pastel tone then unfolds and quickly darkens into candied fruit, ripe hay and toasted notes, along with hints or licorice.
The wine’s opulence contained and succulent, round at heart reveals itself in the mouth. The envelope slides and stretches, and the wine becomes more complex and edgy, silkier than it is creamy. The whole eventually melts into an exquisite bitterness tinged with the briny taste of the sea.